Morocco 2018

30 March 2018-31

Morocco 2018

We arrived at Marrakech International Airport in the evening of early April 2018 for a two-week tour of Morocco. We got out of the airport met our tour guide and boarded the coach to go to our hotel. The temperature is very comfortable at this time of the year. In summer temperature can rise up to 50°C where some part Morocco remains cooler throughout the year.   

It’s a fascinating country to visit, very close to Europe with very diverse mix of African, Arab, Berber and European cultures as it was a French and Spanish colony at the same time. It’s a Sunni Muslim Kingdom.

I hope you will enjoy being with me on my tour around Morocco.

At The Hotel

On the road to Fez

We set out to travel to Fes. (Fes is the correct Arabic spelling. Fez usually refers to the traditional red hat, Tarbouch). It was a bumpy ride through deserts and mountains, about 355 miles from Marrakesh. It looked like the exact route featured in the thriller 'Babel' where the American couple Brad Pitt and Cate Blanchett got kidnapped by the terrorists in Morocco.

Muslim Brotherhood

I had a problem, made a mistake not buying the Moroccan sim at the Marrakesh Airport. When I asked our tour guide to help me buy a Moroccan sim-card, driver Abdul whispered "if you want internet, I will give you internet, but don't tell anyone, it's just for you brother", then he gave me the password of his Wi-Fi modem. Main tour guide Izzat whispered "brother if you tell anyone, there will be big trouble". By the way we were the only Muslims in the group which they found out at the very beginning by our Arabic names and started calling us brother and sister.

On the way to Fez we stopped for lunch here. Moroccan Government is investing heavily on agriculture and Irrigation, this water park is a byproduct of the project. The water comes from the Atlas Mountains.

Our tour guide Izzat, brother Izzy. His father was Moroccan and Mother Turkish. His family lives in Turkey and he works for 6 months (tourist season) in Morocco. and  brother Abdul, the driver.  

Day 3 Fes

Azan

I woke up to Fazr Azan (call for prayer at first light). Azan in Morocco is how it should be, smooth, sweet and divine. There are mosques everywhere and they do use loud speakers but they keep the volume so low that it will only wake up those who want to be woken up. On the other hand, the sound of azan was so sweet it would put others to sleep a little more!

Mosquée Al Quaraouiyine

Al Quaraouiyine mosque is one of the largest and most-well known in Morocco. From the 10th to the 12th century, it became one of the top universities in the world and is considered the oldest university in the world that is still active. Fes has always been the cultural and spiritual capital of Morocco.

It was founded by a woman Fotima AI-Fhrio from Tunis, it was initially a rather small mosque that expanded into a learning centre for science and religion, throughout the centuries hosted by great Islamic scholars including historian Ibn Khaldoun. It allowed women to study from 1940. 

Our local guide, a Berber woman, showing us the wishing coin slot on the wall of a mosque in the old city. Put the money in the slot, cover it with your hand and make a wish. A lot of non-Muslim tourists did just that, clever!

History of Graduation Gown: European students came to study in Islamic Universities, where they learned wearing Islamic dress. When they went back they kept wearing them to show that they have graduated form Islamic Universities, starting a tradition of wearing gown at graduation ceremonies.   

Oranges

These oranges are world famous Seville oranges brought by Muslims and Jews from Andalusia, Spain when they fled to Morocco after the fall of Muslim rule in Spain. I never had such sweet oranges before. Seville oranges are available in UK supermarkets but they are not as sweet, because they are commercially produced and plucked before they are naturally and fully ripe under the hot Mediterranean sun, to extend their shelf life.

The Royal Palace of Fez:

The king is genuinely loved by his people. The national moto is 'Allah-Watan-Malik' meaning 'God-Country-King'.

During the Arab Spring, he called a public meeting where he placed a sword before him and asked if they want to get rid of him they can use that sword or discuss what they wanted him to do. People demanded Jobs and economy.

So the King Mohammed II, undertook a massive programme of irrigation and agriculture, that also generated employment. The Queen Lella Selma pioneered women's education establishing schools all over the rural areas.

To generate employment in one neglected remote area, the king commissioned a royal palace in an effort to raise the area's importance, attract businesses and tourism generating employment. It paid off.

Old Fez

Jewish quarter just outside the palace walls. After the fall of Muslim rule in Spain, Jews were also driven out with Muslims who settled in Fez. In Jewish houses balconies are always outside where Muslim houses have balconies always inside towards a central courtyard. Jews don't live there anymore, they moved to the new city. About 300 Jewish families live in the new city.

Jews and Muslims from Spain settled here. At that time, it became the biggest city in the world with a university 300 years older than Sorbonne. It's a UNESCO world heritage site.

Old Fez: 

Animal Hostel established by an American women, to relieve the sufferings of the Camels and Donkeys travelling long distance through the desert to Fez. — with Monira Ahmed Chowdhury.

New Fez (Fes):

Night stroll along the main boulevard Champs-Élysées de Fes designed by French Architect in the image of Champs-Élysées of Paris when French made the new Fez (Fes) their colonial Capital. It's present name is Avenue Hasan ll after the last king. It's a very nice, clean and safe city, like any western city, but careful, Zebra Crossings are as if just road decorations, ignored by drivers!

Rabat

Royal Mausoleum and the unfinished grand mosque. One dynasty started to build in 1200 AD with columns built with the stones from the Roman ruins. But they lost the kingdom to another dynasty who and the subsequent dynasties did not finish it.

Salamalaikum is like a Muslim Password, it opens doors for you in Muslim countries if you're a tourist. Yesterday while visiting the Royal Mausoleum in Rabat, I went up to those stone-faced guards and said Salamalaikum, a smile appeared on their tight lips as if they melted, they whispered "walaikum as salam, ahlan'.

Rabat,The Capital

The Royal palace and the administrative complex.

Casablanca

Rick’s Cafe

Casablanca; play it again Sam: Our tour guide was very thoughtful. He took us to see Rick's Cafe at night. It was a moonlit night. As we set off by coach, he turned the bright lights off and turned the blue dream lights on, and played the Casablanca music "as time goes by'. what a romantic moment.

Rick’s Cafe is the top tourist spot in Casablanca. The movie actually was shot in Hollywood, not here; but one American lady (ex US Ambassador's wife) opened this cafe in Casablanca with exact interior detail as it was in the movie. It's a working restaurant right in the middle of the city. Tourist buses only stop there for few minutes for people to take pictures. You can't go in unless you are going to eat and it is very expensive. You can imagine how tourists are falling over each other to get a picture. There were two bouncers at the door. So, I thought I would use my Muslim identity to my advantage again. Went up to the bouncers, said the magic word 'Salamalaikum' instantly they made room for me at the door and called Monira who was trying to take a picture of me through the crowd, they called her in, put us together and took our picture.

We had to move on with our group but we planned to come back later from the hotel after dinner for coffee however expensive it may be. They are open till 1 am. But our tour guide advised against it, taking a taxi in an unknown city in Morocco at night didn't feel safe. BTW the old grand piano does not work anymore and Sam is not there to play it again!

Hassan II Mosque.

Last night we were given about 45 minutes by our tour guide to see and take pictures of the night view of the 3rd biggest mosque in the world, Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca from outside. This is the only mosque in Morocco where non-Muslims are allowed in during daytime between prayers at a price, £9 per person and our tour company bought the tickets for our group to visit the inside next morning. But if you are Muslim and want to pray, you are free to go in any time you want. So, I thought being a Muslim I can go in and take some pictures. 

Stopped by a big doorman, said my password, he asked "Muslim?" I said "yes" he asked "pray?" I couldn't lie inside God's house, said "no, click click" he said "no, tomorrow". Disappointed, as I turned around, I thought why don't I go in to pray, then take pictures. So, I went back to him and said "I want to pray". He let me in, I did 2 rakat Namaz (he was watching!) Then took pictures, no problem, here they are. (one fellow tourist watching me tried to do the same, pretending to be a Muslim, didn't work, he went back to the coach and told the waiting tourists, "Mr. Chowdhury is praying" When I came back to the coach, the Muslim staff of the tour company were greeting me as if I'm a hero, "mashallah mashallah, marhaba marhaba! - It was a bit quite embarrassing)

There is a reason why non-Muslims are not allowed to go in any mosque except this one. During French rule, two boys were chased by French soldiers. The boys took shelter in a mosque. The soldiers went in and killed the boys in the mosque that caused an uprising. So, the French made a law that made non-Muslims to enter mosques illegal. That law still exists.

Its the 3rd biggest mosques of Islam after Makkah and Madina. It can accommodate 105,000 worshippers at a time including 20,000 men and 5,000 women inside. It was built at the water's edge as if it's floating in water because in Quran it is said that the throne of God is on water. Designed by a French architect who lived in Morocco and funded by Morocco and other Muslim countries, by 10,000 workers working round the clock in 3 shifts that took only 6 years.

It has no air conditioning but has underfloor (marble) heating. The roof slide open to let air and natural light in. Doors and windows are made of titanium to prevent corrosion from sea breeze. There are 500 loud speakers hidden away, can't see a single one.

Notice the traditional Moroccan minaret. They are all square shape. It has a lift inside for the Muezzin to go up and do azan from top.

All materials are from Morocco except the chandeliers from Italy with Murano Crystals. Each weigh 900Kg. Can be brought down electronically for cleaning. Notice the sliding roofs from inside.

Underground fountains for Ozu (ritual washing) 50 on each side, for men and women. 600 men and 600 women can use them at a time. The columns are plastered with special Venetian Plaster that absorb moisture and controls humidity naturally.

Jardin Majorelle (Botanical Garden) 

Founded by French Orientalist painter Jacques Majorelle, later owned and restored by Yves Saint Laurent.

After travelling around North Africa and the Mediterranean, Jacques Majorelle eventually decided to settle permanently in Marrakech.

In 1923, Majorelle purchased a four-acre plot and built a house in the Mooroccan style. Gradually, he purchased additional land, extending it to 10 acres. In the grounds around the residence, Majorelle began planting a luxuriant garden which would become known as the Jardins Majorelle (Majorelle Garden). The garden became his life's work and he devoted himself to developing it for almost forty years.

The garden proved costly to run and in 1947, Majorelle opened the garden to the public with an admission fee to cover the cost of maintenance. Following his divorce in the 1950s, Majorelle was forced to sell the house and land. After this, the garden was neglected and fell into disrepair. The garden and villa were rediscovered in the 1980s, by fashion designers, Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé who restored it. 

The special shade of bold cobalt blue, inspired by the coloured tiles he had seen around Marrakech and in Berber burn-houses, was used extensively in the garden and its buildings and is named after him, bleu Majorelle (Majorelle Blue). Prior to his death, Majorelle patented the colour which carries his name.

On the Road

Another Moroccan brother Mohammed ll, our luggage man, he does all the loading unloading. His English skill is zero, poor guy can only say Salamalaikum. This morning I said to him 'Sabba al khair', meaning good morning, that made him so happy, he smiled like a baby.

Argan oil production from Argan nuts by village women. It only grows in Morocco. The oil has medicinal properties, used on skin, hair, cooking etc. Expensive.

Goats on Argan tree. Goats do climb Argan tree for its fruits, but these are I'm sure carefully placed for the tourists. There are no goats on other trees, only on roadside trees for tourists to take pictures and pay the men sitting under the tree. In Morocco, if you take pictures of any roadside or street entertainers, you will have to pay. They're quite aggressive in collecting the money. You can't trick them, pretending you arent doing Facebook, they've seen it all!

Carat Tree

The tree behind Monira is no ordinary tree, it's called Carat Tree. Seeds from these trees were used to measure gold by Romans. That's where the word 'Carat' came from. 

Agave Plant:

Fibres from these leaves are almost like silk, we have seen some carpets made of Agave fibbers, you won't know until you are told, they aren't silk.

Park in the island of the road

it's one huge park miles after miles long. All main boulevards have these, which means wherever you live there will be a park near you, if you can't go to the park, park will come to you!

The Moroccans:

They are a mix of most diverse cultures and races, Berbers, Arabs, French and others. You will find totally fair skinned to totally dark and all other shades in between in them but any racial tension or violence is unheard of. We didn't see or feel any. As a whole I found them kind, gentle, polite, friendly and caring. We walked in Marrakech till the middle of the night, even walking through the lanes and alleyways never felt unsafe.

Moroccan Women:

Polygamy is illegal in Morocco. Men cannot take another wife even with the permission of the 1st wife. A court will have to grant permission based on proven valid reason such as severe illness, unable to have a child etc.

Princess Lalla Salma is like Diana of Morocco, very beautiful. She joined forces with Michelle Obama to educate and empower African women through a program called 'Women can Learn'. The programme is supported by European Parliament. Women are taught new skills, like carpet making, Argan oil producing etc. It helps them with raw materials, equipment and marketing their products. It gives women financial freedom, lift their position in society and stops migration of rural population to urban areas in search of work.

I think the government also have a deal with the tour operators, where the bus loads of tourist are brought to the display and sales centres of these products. Perhaps the Governments pay them a commission which allows them to offer discounted holidays to tourists. Tourists also save on buying the products at a discounted price. We have seen it in Turkey as well, same pattern.

I have seen some stunningly beautiful young Moroccan women in Morocco. One of them was sitting near us in a restaurant other day. She was wearing a hijab and Abaya (like a full body gown), only her face was exposed, but that made her even more beautiful with elegance, as if she was a 'hoor' out of 'Arabian Nights'. To describe a hoor's beauty, one Persian poet wrote, "if a hoor of paradise ever peeked through the 7th sky, all the men in the world would go blind bedazzled by her beauty".

I wouldn't go that far, but to give you an idea, supermodel Kendall Jenner comes pretty close. If Kendall saw her, she would start wearing hijab and Abaya to look like her. Now you might say beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, yeah, I know, but there is some beauty if the beholder can't see, he must be blind!

Most Moroccan young women wear western clothing, some wear Abaya but almost all of them wear hijab. But the way they wear hijab is similar to Arab and Iranian girls, elegant and simple. Not like the hijab most Bangladeshi women wears these days, heavy, colourful and often ornamented. Some of them looks like pagri or turbans. I don't know how it has evolved, perhaps influenced by headgears from different regions of the Indian subcontinent.

The Bride

A Moroccan bride walks in the hotel lobby. Brides in Most Muslim countries wear western bridal dress with traditional ornaments. Here she is wearing a Moroccan ornamented headgear. She was beautiful. 

Marrakech 

Jemaa el-Fna

Morocco Diary 2018
Jemaa el-Fna

It’s the main square in Marrakesh, it comes to life after dark, it’s the heart of the city, if you haven't been here, you haven't been in Marrakech! There’s nowhere in Morocco like the Jemaa el Fna. By day, most of the square is just a big open space, in which a handful of snake charmers, medicine men and some vendors do their trade.

At dusk, as in France and Spain, people come out and fill the square until it becomes a whole carnival of storytellers, acrobats, musicians and entertainers. There are a lot of rooftop terraces, where you can relax with a drink or Kababs.

Most of the crowd are Moroccan of course but tourists also make a major contribution to the atmosphere. Sideshow attractions include games of hoop-the-bottle, fortune-tellers sitting under umbrellas with packs of fortune-telling cards, and women doing henna “tattoos”.

As dusk falls, the square becomes a huge open-air dining area, packed with stalls, and the air is filled with wonderful smells and plumes of cooking smoke spiralling up.

There are a lot of poor people in Marrakesh, but their sense of dignity is adorable, except for a few elderly poor people, hardly anyone will beg you for help, instead they always try to sell you little things like a rose, pack of tissue etc.

Little boy in the square
As we were coming back from dinner walking through the square, I saw a little boy barely five or six, sitting on the ground with his head tucked between his little knees, either fell asleep or trying to keep himself warm. There was a little box with some biscuits in front of him, obviously he was there to sell those. I touched his back, he looked up, such a sweet innocent face, I felt like picking him up and hugging him. He should have been in bed at that time. I gave him some money, he was confused, I told him that I didn't want any biscuits. I touched his face and walked away, he was not a beggar though.

Koutoubiyya Mosque
It's the 800 years old mosque by the square and it's minaret is always visible in almost any pictures of Jemaa el-Fna. As always, whenever I come across any historical Mosque, I make it a mission to pray in them and I always make extra effort to stand just behind the Imam. So both of us joined the Asr prayer. Again I was just behind the Imam. After the jamat I joined the Imam and made special prayer for all my loved ones, dead and alive, near and far, with all faiths or no faiths, including all my Facebook friends for God to grant us peace and happiness in life and when it's time to go, to make our exit quick and easy and then let us into heaven forgiving all our shortcomings. Then I introduced myself to the elderly Imam and shook hands (musafa) with him, he smiled at me, very sweet smile. He had a divine appearance, I felt touched by an angel!

Women are allowed in the main prayer hall in a designated area, but open, not curtained off. It's a huge mosque and for that prayer they had about 5-6 lines full. When the Jamat was about to start, I saw something that I have never seen before. Every line stepped back leaving couple of empty lines between them, spreading out to make the mosque appear fuller. When people started moving, I was a bit confused. It took me a while to understand the practice.

Mechoui:

slow roasted whole lamb. These huge clay ovens dug in the ground can roast 12 whole lamb at a time. They are sold in some restaurants in a small alley in one corner of the main square till 2pm. They are not open for dinner.

Little boy in the square:

There are a lot of poor people in Marrakech, but their sense of dignity is adorable, except for a few elderly poor people, hardly anyone will beg you for help, instead they always try to sell you little things like a rose, pack of tissue etc.

As we were coming back from dinner walking through the square, I saw a little boy barely five or six, sitting on the ground with his head tucked between his little knees, either fell asleep or trying to keep himself warm. There was a little box with some biscuits in front of him, obviously he was there to sell those. I touched his back, he looked up, such a sweet innocent face, I felt like picking him up and hugging him. He should have been in bed by now. I saw my little son in him at his age. I gave him some money, he was confused, I told him that I didn't want any biscuits. I touched his face and walked away.

As it always happens to me, now I am thinking why didn't I give him more, but then again, he was not a beggar.

Koutoubia Mosque: 800 years old and the largest mosque in Marrakech.

Today I had a mission, to pray inside the 800 years old Koutoubiyya Mosque in the centre of Marrakech. Both of us joined the Asr prayer. I did an additional Nafl prayer as well. I made an effort to be just behind the Imam. After the jamat I joined the Imam and made special prayer for all my loved ones, dead and alive, near and far, with all faiths or no faiths, including all my Facebook friends for Allah to grant us peace and happiness in life and when it's time to go, to make our exit quick and easy and then let us into heaven forgiving all our shortcomings. Then I introduced myself to the elderly Imam and shook hands (musafa) with him, he smiled at me, very sweet smile. He had a divine appearance, I felt touched by an angel!

Women are allowed in the main prayer hall in a designated area, but open, not curtained off

It's a huge mosque and for that prayer they had about 5-6 lines full. When the Jamat was about to start, I saw something that I have never seen before. Every line stepped back leaving couple of empty lines between them, spreading out to make the mosque appear fuller. 

Ouzoud Waterfall

Fabled Islamic Paradise Garden.

It is like other Islamic gardens designed the way paradise garden is described in Qur'an, Geometric symmetrical design, water features, fruits are the main elements of Islamic gardens. In Alhambra they went one step further, Qur'an described that the sweet juicy fruits will be within reach, and paradise duellers will enjoy them without any effort. So, the Alhambra garden designers planted the fruit trees way down low, much lower than the walkways so the fruits of the trees will be right in front within arm's reach.

El Badi Palace 

(Palais el-Badi) was built at the end of the sixteenth century by the sultan Ahmed al-Mansour to commemorate the victory of the Battle of the Three Kings against the Portuguese. It was funded by the substantial ransom paid by the Portuguese

800 years old Mimber from Koutoubia Mosque, restored by Metropolitan Museum of Art New York and Moroccan Government, privately funded by a donation. — at Palais El badi.

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People we met:

Bill

My fellow tourist Bill. Met him in Manchester airport, traveling with his wife Meg Lovely man with incredible sense of humour, soon we became friends, actually he became friends with many others particularly with one Greek young girl they became so affectionate that they were introducing her as their granddaughter. On the coach couple of days ago, as we were leaving Casablanca for Marrakech, he suddenly became unconscious, we all thought he was having a stroke or heart attack. His poor wife Meg thought she was losing her husband, she was devastated. Luckily there was a nurse traveling with us sitting near him who noticed him first and she looked after him very well until ambulance arrived and took him away to hospital. We continued leaving him in Casablanca. Few hours later we were informed that he didn't have a heart attack or stroke. They sent him to Marrakech to join us next day. Everyone was missing him and was happy to have him back. He told us he couldn't have a heart attack because he doesn't have a heart, he gave it to his wife a long time ago. To that his wife Meg said "what a load of rubbish"! He told me about the young nurse "I am going to have her promoted". I'm sure he will because he is President of a Christian Society with powerful members in high places.

Our friend Bill is so fond of us, he would always come sit near us, be it at the dining room, poolside, coffee bar, wherever. Once he was trying to sit near us in the dining room, but there were no empty tables next to us, so he was chatting with us standing, perhaps waiting for the couple on next table to leave. Monira being helpful pointed to an empty table at a distance. Bill says "I was trying to sit near her and she points me to a table far away!!!"

Bill has become the protector of 5 young beautiful girls in our group traveling alone or with mom only. After couple of them have been approached by some young men, Bill thought this will have to stop. So, he cracked a conversation with the boys and got the word out that he is traveling with his adopted granddaughters. One asked how many of them, he said "you see, there is one English, one black, one Pakistani, one Greek and one Chinese". Now those girls also tell others that they are with their grandparents!

I looked up Royal Society of Saint George, where our friend Bill is the current president. The name of the organisation may not mean anything to you but If I name some of the ex-President and Vice presidents, that will get your attention, Prince of Wales, Field Marshal Montgomery, Rudyard Kipling, Sir Winston Churchill to name a few. Their Patron is The Queen. In a conversation when he very casually said "Queen told me..." I thought who is this guy, I better look up and there you are. In western world there are many societies like this, which we have no clue about, but they are extremely powerful.

Mohammed ll,

Another Moroccan brother Mohammed ll, our luggage man, he does all the loading unloading. His English skill is zero, poor guy can only say Salamalaikum. This morning I said to him 'Sabba al khair', meaning good morning, that made him so happy, he smiled like a baby.

Brother Idris: what a lovely man. We bought a Djellaba from him, he packed it and I put it in my bag. We ran out of cash, so he took Monira next door to use their credit card machine, leaving me alone in his shop, it didn't work. So, we told him that we will come back tomorrow with cash and walked out without realising the purchase was still in our bag. Brother didn't say a word. Later we found a cash point got the cash out and returned to his shop. Paid him and asked for the item, he said it's in your bag. We were so embarrassed that we left with the goods without paying, I said "why didn't you say anything?" He said "you said you would come back tomorrow and l trusted you"

The Solitary Man:

He was a NASA scientist, member of the Concord designer team. The little old Indian man was travelling with us in Morocco all by himself. Everyone else was with somebody. We saw him sitting by the pool, dining hall, coffee bar all by himself. Some of us talked to him to give him some company. His wife has Alzheimer's, he is her carer, his only daughter lives away. She put her in a nursing home to give him some respite, this was his respite holiday.

Chez Ali

I will finish my Morocco diary with Chez Ali Show. It's an unbelievable night of entertainment at the Chez Ali complex on the outskirts of Marrakesh with the sights and sounds of Moroccan musicians and dancers, while eating a 5-course meal in caidal tents. After dinner while having the Moroccan Mint tea and 'sheesha' under the tents we watched the reenactment of a scene from Lawrence of Arabia. It was really like being in the tales of Arabian Nights complete with dazzling extravaganza of dancers, fire-eaters, belly dancers & magicians. Also a breathtaking fireworks and a horseback show that will leave anyone speechless. By the way there was a Moroccan girl among others greeting the guests, she was so beautiful, only Omar Khayyam perhaps could describe her beauty in a rubayat. I will leave it to your imagination!

Tip for future travellers to Morocco:

Always bring a spare phone unless you have a dual SIM phone. Buy a SIM at your first opportunity, do not rely on hotel Wi-Fi. They are pathetic. For some strange reason they are very stingy with Wi-Fi. Maroc Telecom and Inwi are the main operators. I was told Maroc has better coverage. At the airport girls in blue t-shirts sells Inwi SIM. You can buy SIM from some shops or from some boys wearing orange uniforms with Maroc badge at the main square in Marrakech. SIM cost 30 dirham and 10 dirham per GB top-up. It's about £3 total and you are online in no time. They will sort it all for you. It's completely fuss-free, no passport, no photo, no form to fill, none of those rubbish.